[R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?

[Gail & Doug Wolvington]

My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler.  When it is 
cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on 
drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) 
I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried 
on windshield-floor button.   Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I 
can see.

After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start 
up.

Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep 
windshield from fogging but is bit chilly.

any suggestions?

Gail & Doug Wolvington
1991 300sl
Bossier City, LA
grwdew at bellsouth.net
  From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com
  Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM
  To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
  Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3


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  Today's Topics:

     1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl)
     2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the
        office. (sautry at teknorapex.com)
     3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar)
     4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co)
     5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett)
     6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman)


  ----------------------------------------------------------------------

  Message: 1
  Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700
  From: "gerhard stefandl" <gstefandl at cox.net>
  Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
  To: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
  Message-ID: <2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  I have a '94  sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm 
figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel 
off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can 
anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the 
window mechanism.

  Thanks for the help.
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  Message: 2
  Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800
  From: sautry at teknorapex.com
  Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of
  the office.
  To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
  Message-ID:
  <OF59856DA8.53F22593-ON8825751F.00002014-8825751F.00002014 at teknorapex.com>

  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


  I will be out of the office starting  12/12/2008 and will not return until
  12/15/2008.

  I will respond to your message when I return.



  ------------------------------

  Message: 3
  Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500
  From: Rob Vonderhaar <rob at robvonder.com>
  Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
  To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
  Message-ID:
  <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchange.net>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel 
(even includes color photos!).  I've used these myself and they're perfect: 
http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-door.html

  Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the 
door panel off and taking a look.  You'll probably find a problem with 
either the motor or regulator.  I had similar trouble with my '95 where I 
first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side 
window reached the full-down position.  The problem continued to get worse 
until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either 
direction.

  After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window 
motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts 
(the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame).  The OEM Bosch motor 
had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the 
door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and 
finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body.  An incredibly stupid 
design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny 
motor gear drives the window regulator up and down.  Eventually, the plastic 
posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several 
at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move 
when torque is applied.  The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear 
jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth 
over time.  Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly.

  If you do find yours broken this way, shop around:  I located a used motor 
on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it 
turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice 
cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic 
is also used on new replacement motors).  The metal body also didn't require 
the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. 
While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the 
vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly 
and with little effort.  It works like new, and no more problems since then.

  Hope this helps!
       Rob Vonderhaar
       Leesburg, VA

  PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing 
the door strap at the same time.  It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on 
the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door 
torn apart.  Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again 
later like I did...  :)

  From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] 
On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl
  Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM
  To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
  Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window

  I have a '94  sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm 
figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel 
off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can 
anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the 
window mechanism.

  Thanks for the help.
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  Message: 4
  Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600
  From: "mid-co" <mid-co at ix.netcom.com>
  Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.
  To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
  Message-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"



  Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec
  window motors.


  I have a 1995  , sl 500.

  Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the
  Transmission is in reverse and under load ?
  ( no clicking when rolling backwards).
  Other than the clicking in reverse , the
  transmission shifts like it's brand new.

  Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

  Bruce in Nashville.
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  Message: 5
  Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800
  From: "Steven A Hiett" <shiett at charter.net>
  Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?
  To: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
  Message-ID:
  <20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

  Hi,



  Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL?
  Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles.  Though clean and with 
a
  good history it required some catch-up maintenance.  After running the MB
  Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized 
CD,
  Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks
  BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues.  What I've not
  found is information about modifications and parts to boost the 
performance
  and reliability.  What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty
  shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own?  Are
  there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge?  Living 
in
  Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not
  many (any) independent MB shops or clubs.  Help.



            -Thanks, Steve Hiett

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  Message: 6
  Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500
  From: "Jonathan Hodgman" <jhodgman at gmail.com>
  Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?
  To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
  Message-ID:
  <1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  Hello Steve,

  Well, your options are limited to be quite honest..  Options are build a 
6L
  varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark..  Or, engineer a rear mount turbo
  setup..  I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on
  centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about.

  In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these 
cars
  faster.  You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92.
  Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from 
the
  manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly.

  If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone
  fuel/spark management.

  Jonathan
  -- 
  Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East
  Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.
  Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the
  world.
  Located in the Greater Atlanta area.
  http://www.blueridgemb.com
  404 805 1357

  1996 S600 Euro
  1991 560SEC  Euro ECE
  1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion
  1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp
  1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan
  1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm
  1988 300TE
  1987 300E AMG
  1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V
  1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V
  2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp
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  End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3
  ***************************************


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