[R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?
Satish Tummala
satish at tummala.net
Sun Dec 14 15:00:03 EST 2008
Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when
the defroster is on.
From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Gail & Doug Wolvington
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?
My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is
cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on
drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.)
I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried
on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I
can see.
After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start
up.
Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep
windshield from fogging but is bit chilly.
any suggestions?
Gail & Doug Wolvington
1991 300sl
Bossier City, LA
grwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV>
From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>
Sent: <mailto:r129list-request at mbcoupes.com> Sunday, December 14, 2008
11:15 AM
To: <mailto:r129list-request at mbcoupes.com> <mailto:r129list at mbcoupes.com>
r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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Today's Topics:
1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl)
2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the
office. (sautry at teknorapex.com)
&n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar)
4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co)
5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett)
6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman)
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700
From: "gerhard stefandl" <gstefandl at cox.net>
Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
To: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928
<mailto:2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm
figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel
off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can
anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the
window mechanism.
Thanks for the help.
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800
From: sautry at teknorapex.com
Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of
the office.
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
<OF59856DA8.53F22593-ON8825751F.00002014-8825751F.00002014 at tekno
<mailto:OF59856DA8.53F22593-ON8825751F.00002014-8825751F.00002014 at tek%0d%0an
orapex.com> rapex.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until
12/15/2008.
I will respond to your message when I return.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500
From: Rob Vonderhaar <rob at robvonder.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
<2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene
<mailto:2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexcha%0d%0an
ge.net> t>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel
(even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect:
http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d <http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-door.html>
oor.html
Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the
door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with
either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I
first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side
window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse
until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either
direction.
After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor
itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the
regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a
black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door
frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally
into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design,
because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor
gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts
into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at
the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move
when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear
jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth
over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly.
If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor
on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it
turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice
cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic
is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require
the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable.
While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the
vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly
and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then.
Hope this helps!
Rob Vonderhaar
Leesburg, VA
PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the
door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the
older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn
apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later
like I did... :)
From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A>
[mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm
figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel
off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can
anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the
window mechanism.
Thanks for the help.
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600
From: "mid-co" <mid-co at ix.netcom.com>
Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3
<mailto:09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC> C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec
window motors.
I have a 1995 , sl 500.
Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the
Transmission is in reverse and under load ?
( no clicking when rolling backwards).
Other than the clicking in reverse , the
transmission shifts like it's brand new.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Bruce in Nashville.
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800
From: "Steven A Hiett" <shiett at charter.net>
Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?
To: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
<20 <mailto:20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>
081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>
Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi,
Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL?
Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a
good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB
Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD,
Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks
BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not
found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance
and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty
shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are
there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in
Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not
many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help.
; -Thanks, Steve Hiett
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500
From: "Jonathan Hodgman" <jhodgman at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
< <mailto:1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>
1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>
Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Steve,
Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L
varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo
setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on
centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about.
In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars
faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92.
Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the
manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly.
If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone
fuel/spark management.
Jonathan
--
Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East
Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.
Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the
world.
Located in the Greater Atlanta area.
http://www.blueridgemb.com
404 805 1357
1996 S600 Euro
1991 560SEC Euro ECE
1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion
1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp
1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan
1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm
1988 300TE
1987 300E AMG
1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V
1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V
2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp
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