[Jacob-list] fencing materials

[Chovhani]

We have electric weaving through trees, not a problem, the thing with electric is that it must not touch any overhanging branches or undergrowth, or the power is reduced as it arcs. You'll hear a "tic-tic-tic" if there are any plants getting arced to. We are extremely happy with out electric fencing, but for anyone who requires "maintenance free" fencing, it would not be suitable, as we have to take the weed whacker around it every couple of weeks. For us, that is acceptable, as the fencing was so cheap. It would depend on how much you have to trim.
Melanie


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gary Tomas Fay 
  To: Grose 
  Cc: Jacoblist 
  Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 2:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Jacob-list] fencing materials


  Some good advice Neal, I have a few comments / questions ... electric has to be straight (for the most part ) doesn't it and going between trees is better suited for cattle panel type fencing? ( unless you use lots of the heavy posts you described as corner posts. ) 
  As for the sledge hammer, I get a ladder and a hammer sized sledge, and in that manner, by soft head is safe, and my hand and shins are the only ones risking injury ... 

  Gary 
    
    

  Grose wrote: 

    I had a friend near here who had a fence consisting of unrolling a roll of woven wire, standing it up, and tying it to the existing rusted barb-wire fence with baling twine. This worked well for 5 years because she did not have Jacobs; then, one summer coyotes selectively ate all of the Romney lambs in the space of one week, touching nary a Border Leicester. Based on about 40 years of repairing fences, here are some observations:1] Don't worry about keeping the sheep in...only about keeping the neighbors dog out.2] Fences must provide determent to infiltration even with the power off. It will be off when you least expect it.3] Good fences increase the value of the property and keep you from shooting the neighbors dog.4] When building perimeter fences, expect to spend at least $100 in materials and labor on each corner. Corner posts should be 8 inches diameter and 8 feet long and set in concrete or driven at least 3 feet in heavy clay soils with a post driver. Brace posts should be 6" by 8'. Make an "H" brace using high-tensile wire and rachet tightners for bracing.This will enable you to provide 200pounds tension on the wire. Multi-strand high tensile set 4" maximum and woven wire are then about equal. Line posts can [and will] be broken off without affecting the integrity off the fence.5] Think of building a hog or cattle panel fence the way you would think of building a barn out of plywood instead of steel beams. A little barn can be built very cost effectively with plywood and 2X4s. Buy a $20 tube type post driver. Since cattle panels are self bracing like plywood, you eliminate the higher expense of corners. Do not drive T-bar posts with a sledge hammer unless hitting yourself in the head with the hammer or missing the post and smashing your knee is not a problem for you. [Many of my friends think that this explains some things..] Neal Grose
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