[Jacob-list] fencing materials

[Kathryn Shirley]

I use those t post pounder sleeves myself.  Just a word of advice for
those who are not familiar with them:  they weigh about 20 pounds.
Place pounder over the end of the t post while the post is still laying
on the ground.  You lift post and pounder together.  I've seen guys
standing the post up and then attempting to lift an unwieldy 20 pound
weight over their head and onto the end of the t post.  Entertainment
value is increased by height of post.  Wear gloves when using the
pounder.  Very quick, and much less energy required to pound t posts in.

Oh, yes.  Plan your gates well.  It is  best to have each pasture having
a gate onto every other pasture.  You never know when you'll need it to
drive trucks or sheep in and out of pastures.  Also, put gates posts in
before hanging fence.  My neighbor provided me with many mornings of
amusement as I realized that his beautifully fenced in two acre horse
pasture didn't have a gate.

I debated on whether or not to tell him before the horses arrived....

Kate Shirley

Gary Tomas Fay wrote:

> Some good advice Neal, I have a few comments / questions ... electric
> has to be straight (for the most part ) doesn't it and going between
> trees is better suited for cattle panel type fencing? ( unless you use
> lots of the heavy posts you described as corner posts. )
>
> As for the sledge hammer, I get a ladder and a hammer sized sledge,
> and in that manner, by soft head is safe, and my hand and shins are
> the only ones risking injury ...
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> Grose wrote:
>
>> I had a friend near here who had a fence consisting of unrolling a
>> roll of woven wire, standing it up, and tying it to the existing
>> rusted barb-wire fence with baling twine. This worked well for 5
>> years because she did not have Jacobs; then, one summer coyotes
>> selectively ate all of the Romney lambs in the space of one week,
>> touching nary a Border Leicester. Based on about 40 years of
>> repairing fences, here are some observations:1] Don't worry about
>> keeping the sheep in...only about keeping the neighbors dog out.2]
>> Fences must provide determent to infiltration even with the power
>> off. It will be off when you least expect it.3] Good fences increase
>> the value of the property and keep you from shooting the neighbors
>> dog.4] When building perimeter fences, expect to spend at least $100
>> in materials and labor on each corner. Corner posts should be 8
>> inches diameter and 8 feet long and set in concrete or driven at
>> least 3 feet in heavy clay soils with a post driver. Brace posts
>> should be 6" by 8'. Make an "H" brace using high-tensile wire and
>> rachet tightners for bracing.This will enable you to provide
>> 200pounds tension on the wire. Multi-strand high tensile set 4"
>> maximum and woven wire are then about equal. Line posts can [and
>> will] be broken off without affecting the integrity off the fence.5]
>> Think of building a hog or cattle panel fence the way you would
>> think of building a barn out of plywood instead of steel beams. A
>> little barn can be built very cost effectively with plywood and
>> 2X4s. Buy a $20 tube type post driver. Since cattle panels are self
>> bracing like plywood, you eliminate the higher expense of corners.
>> Do not drive T-bar posts with a sledge hammer unless hitting
>> yourself in the head with the hammer or missing the post and
>> smashing your knee is not a problem for you. [Many of my friends
>> think that this explains some things..] Neal Grose
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://www.pairlist.net/pipermail/jacob-list/attachments/20020509/482363ad/attachment.htm