[Jacob-list] fencing materials

[Gary Tomas Fay]

Some good advice Neal, I have a few comments / questions ... electric
has to be straight (for the most part ) doesn't it and going between
trees is better suited for cattle panel type fencing? ( unless you use
lots of the heavy posts you described as corner posts. )

As for the sledge hammer, I get a ladder and a hammer sized sledge, and
in that manner, by soft head is safe, and my hand and shins are the only
ones risking injury ...

Gary



Grose wrote:

> I had a friend near here who had a fence consisting of unrolling a
> roll of woven wire, standing it up, and tying it to the existing
> rusted barb-wire fence with baling twine. This worked well for 5 years
> because she did not have Jacobs; then, one summer coyotes selectively
> ate all of the Romney lambs in the space of one week, touching nary a
> Border Leicester. Based on about 40 years of repairing fences, here
> are some observations:1] Don't worry about keeping the sheep in...only
> about keeping the neighbors dog out.2] Fences must provide determent
> to infiltration even with the power off. It will be off when you least
> expect it.3] Good fences increase the value of the property and keep
> you from shooting the neighbors dog.4] When building perimeter fences,
> expect to spend at least $100 in materials and labor on each corner.
> Corner posts should be 8 inches diameter and 8 feet long and set in
> concrete or driven at least 3 feet in heavy clay soils with a post
> driver. Brace posts should be 6" by 8'. Make an "H" brace using
> high-tensile wire and rachet tightners for bracing.This will enable
> you to provide 200pounds tension on the wire. Multi-strand high
> tensile set 4" maximum and woven wire are then about equal. Line posts
> can [and will] be broken off without affecting the integrity off the
> fence.5] Think of building a hog or cattle panel fence the way you
> would think of building a barn out of plywood instead of steel beams.
> A little barn can be built very cost effectively with plywood and
> 2X4s. Buy a $20 tube type post driver. Since cattle panels are self
> bracing like plywood, you eliminate the higher expense of corners. Do
> not drive T-bar posts with a sledge hammer unless hitting yourself in
> the head with the hammer or missing the post and smashing your knee is
> not a problem for you. [Many of my friends think that this explains
> some things..] Neal Grose
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