[R129 SL] (no subject)

[Jan Kuylaars]

The oil lines are attached in a conical hole with small seals an
fastened with a simple clip. If you pull off the clip, you can remove
the line by pulling it out of the cylinder.
The cylinder rest with the ends over a pin. Over that pin is E ring
plugged to seale the cylinder.

So it is very easy to change the cylinder.
First take off the plates in the trunk, so you can easely work.

If you mean the cylinders from the roll bar, it is a different story.


-----Original Message-----
From: Anil M Seunath [mailto:amseunath at atlanticlng.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 2:04 AM
To: SL Mailing List
Cc: jan at rian-bv.nl
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] (no subject)







Compliments of the season to you all..
Hello Jan...

I wanted to share my soft top experience. and possibly get some advice.

- I was in the process of trouble shooting the soft top issue i have
with it closing and then i started to see hydraulic fluid.
- I tried to put back on the hard top... because i was leaving the
country for a while .. but it would not lock.. no movements at all..
- I spoke to the MB people in Canada and they were very helpful. As they
said.. it turned out the reservoir under the spare tire was dry..
- So i put in enough fluid and the hard top closed perfect..
- Now, i see where the fluid leaks from.. its a piston just behind the
door in a vertical stance.
- So how to i take out this piston.. that's my question at this point..

Anil. Trinidad & Tobago, W.I (World Cup 2006)


 

             "Jan"

             <jan at rian-bv.nl>

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             12/18/2005 05:18          [R129 SL] (no subject)

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So I saw the question how to change the geer shift knob,

Here is the answer:

Turn on ignition key. Apply the parking brake. Set the shifting lever in
the Neutral or manual in the 3rd gear and switch off the ignition key.
The radio must be removed, also the iron slide, because the air
conditioner and heating control unit is fixed by two handles who are
blocked by the radio slide. Remove trim around the radio, Insert left en
right side removal keys, and pull out the radio. Remove the antenna and
electrical connector- also removes the radio slide. When the radio slide
is removed you can simply remove the heating unit by pushing it out off
the console with your hand reach in true the radio hole, and then give
it a push from the inside. Then the two handles goes down to let the
unit pas. Like cliff said: remove the two harnesses from the control
unit by switching the middle lever in the connector to the windshield
direction, And pull the connector off the unit. Afterwards you can
connect them in reverse by switch the lever back to the rear of the car.

Remove for AT the plastic trim ring around selector lever by putting a
little small flatbed screwdriver under it and pull it off straight up.
It is fixed with one ribbed plate on the front, one left and With two
pieces on the side from the as tray. For MT disengage bottom off shift
boot. Open the cover from the sunglass room in front off the gear knob.
Unscrew the parker in the middle off the bottom inside, and with a small
flat screwdriver bend the left upper part of the grey Inside cover to
the right, and then the right upper part from the inside covers to the
left. Pull out the complete inside cover. Then remove the two parker
screws on the left and right bottom side behind the inside cover. Then
move the rear off the tunnel console cover to the left and the right and
slightly pull the rear upwards and push the complete cover backwards to
the let the upper part what is fixed with two Hooks under the AC and
dash come downwards and let the complete cover free. Turn the cover a
little to the right, so you can pull of the connectors from the
switches. Don't worry, all the connectors are different and all have a
plastic pin to align. Now you can pull the cover over the gear shaft and
lay it right beneath the tunnel, or easily remove the other connectors
and putt the cover in a safe place

I take the opportunity now all the switches were free to repair the roll
bar switch, (what stays in on the downwards function, and I must reset
by pushing once up) and to turn every nut and screw to be fastening. The
roll bar switch was easily removed by simply pull of. I take the switch
with me to my electronically repair room and discovered that I can whip
off the plastic button. The pin with the feather stays In the button. I
take out the cupper switching part, and see that on the lower part there
was a small burn in on the contact plates. I simply take a flatbed
screwdriver and scraps a little over the contact points from the
switched parts, so that they are polished and the burning marks
disappears. Then I placed back the 90? contact plate, and pushed back
the plastic button. OK the switch was repaired.

Now the most difficult part of the session begun. I did not know how to
remove the upper side of the gearbox. I did not have drawings or any
comment. So the first fault I made was to forget to remove The knob of
the slide switch E-S. Later on I must find it back between the tunnel
and the box, so first begin with removing that knob and put it away in a
safe place. Then I made a second fault, I set the shifter in the first
gear, so down and then to the right. The lever is nice standing up. Why
this was fault I tell you later. Then the upper cover from the gear box
is fixed by an 90? lever, what is clipped under the part of the console
that's from left to right and is screwed on the car body just before the
as tray. On the windshield side it is fixed on the same places as the
plastic trim ring is. I take the same flat bed screwdriver and slightly
push the 90? lever to the shifter side, so I could see that the cover
came loose. Then I put the screwdriver between the left click levers and
push it firmly to the left, and do the same with the front click lever.
Now the cover came up. I took a 15 mm old round nut key and a saw, and
saw out 8mm of the front part off the key. Now I could place the key
over the shift lever and try to turn the nut loose. But that would not
happen. The key only opened and slipped over the nut. I need more power.
Then I took my big pipe wrench and with one turn to the left the gear
lever came loose and I turn it out. Then changing the gear knob with the
wooden one, first put it true the upper gear cover, then screw the nut
back, and turn the complete lever back in place. I took the open 15 nut
key and adjusted The knob in horizontal line with the car. Turn the knob
for the last 15? together with nut key, saved the position .So far OK. I
put the upper cover back in place and assembled the rest of the parts
back in their position. After I was finished I tested everything and
discovered that I could not place the automatic gear in the first gear
because there was a plastic piece of a switch in the way, the hole was
on the right side. The rest was working OK. I put the switch from first
gear to the left, so the lever could go in 1st gear. But then when I
would start the engine, there was no connection between the start motor
And the engine anymore.  At that moment my heart began faster to beat.
I shifted to neutral and switched the plastic back. Then I started
again, and luckily it works. Then I realised that I made a fault During
the assembling from the gear upper cover. So now knowing how to work, I
dissembling everything within 10 minutes, and with the upper cover
removed I switched the lever all to the right downwards so it came in
the hole from the plastic switch. Then I put back the upper cover, and
switched the gear lever to neutral. First made the test to start. OK it
was fine !!!!! That was the fault I made. So put everything together
again and it was fixed.



With kind Regards,


Jan Kuylaars Westerhoven



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