[R129 SL] RE: R129LIST Digest, Vol 13, Issue 1 age and milages

[John Kirkman]

Jan
Thank you for the terrific tips on maintaining an SL. Your email goes into
my maintenance log.
Here is some advice from an individual much more knowledgeable than I about
engine oil.

"Use Red Line synthetic oil (www.redlineoil.com)
5W-30, 10W-40, 15W-50 or 20W-50, depending on factory recommendations,
ambient temperatures, and severity of service (track use, sustained high rpm
use), with a drain interval - 7,500 to 18,000 miles depending on engine and
severity of use."

He also races his BMW so consider that when viewing the recommendations.

Also read
http://www.motorwatch.com/automotivebible/auto_motive_bible/MotorOilService.
htm
which has some stuff on oil.
www.motorwatch.com is a pretty good reference generally.

My unscientific view is that once the rubber seals have hardened, it may be
difficult to undue the problem with oil, but it's worth a try. I have been
told that the "real" synthetic oil will always be between the metal parts so
you never have unprotected metal on metal, as is typical on start-up. Its
effect on hardened rubber seals would be an excellent question for
www.motorwatch.com.
I wonder if the humidity of your local climate has some adverse effect on
the fuses in your SL?
John Kirkman (new owner!)
1996 SL600

-----Original Message-----
From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Jan Kuylaars
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 6:33 AM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: [R129 SL] RE: R129LIST Digest, Vol 13, Issue 1 age and milages


My 500 SL is one of the first build in 1989.
It has driven 240 000 km.

When I bought the car three years ago, there was not spend any money on
maintenance. It had a great look and the basic technical was OK. And a
lot off small parts were missing or defect, But the price for the parts
was not the problem. Every week I bought some new parts and restore the
car in its original state. Also I had a lot off not working electrical
parts. Start with replacement from ALL fuses ( 3 $) solved  50% from the
electrical problems.
Then a common problem ware relay's with burned contact points, like the
windshield module. So with some fine sandpaper I save the costs of a
electrical module.

I replaced the two rear wheel bearings, the brake disks, the parking
brake sets, the antenna, the tires and the plastic windows in the
soft-top.

It took me a year to do so, the total cost were about the 1700 $ but now
the car is like brand new.
I ride it for two years without really problems.

It takes only a lot off oil because the rubber seals for the inlet and
outlet valves became hard in the 15 years the car exists. Important is
that you must use every time the same brand and specification for the
oil you fill up.
If you use different brand , the cars consume more oil.

After using over a longer period the same oil, the consuming is less, so
I am wondering what to do.
Repair the bullet proof engine for a lot off money, or except some use
off oil ( 1 litre 1500 km) and a small kind off smoke after riding away.

Jan The flying Dutchman
500 SL RED 1989



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