[R129 SL] Re: R129LIST digest, Vol 1 #39 - 23 msgs
Michael Green
r129list@mbcoupes.com
Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:55:00 -0700
On the brake dust problem, if you can't cure it, this cleaner works well:
http://www.detailingdepot.com/detaildepot/product.asp?dept%5Fid=4&pf%5Fid=088
It's a non-acid wheel cleaner. You buy one gallon of concentrate that will
mix into 3-5 gallons of product in a spray bottle that will last you for
quite a while. Much more economical than buying the stuff at the auto parts
store - the equivalent amount of Eagle 1 or whatever you get at the auto
parts store would probably run you $100.00.
Mike........
----- Original Message -----
From: <r129list-request@mbcoupes.com>
To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:46 PM
Subject: R129LIST digest, Vol 1 #39 - 23 msgs
> Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to
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>
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> than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. 1997 600SL Purchase. (Carol Hodgman)
> 2. Re: 1997 600SL Purchase. (Michael Willnow)
> 3. Re: 1997 600SL Purchase. (John Collins)
> 4. Top Hydraulic leak (BeckyM65@aol.com)
> 5. RE: Top Hydraulic leak (Satish Tummala)
> 6. Re: Top Hydraulic leak (pngreene@earthlink.net)
> 7. Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question (Tom Reynolds)
> 8. RE: Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question (Steve Sims)
> 9. RE: Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question (Satish Tummala)
> 10. RE: Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question (Tom Reynolds)
> 11. Re: 300 SL (Adam Gage)
> 12. RE: 300 SL (Cliff Sadler)
> 13. RE: shift knob replacement part 2 (Cliff Sadler)
> 14. RE: 300 SL (Satish Tummala)
> 15. RE: 300 SL (Kirk Jones)
> 16. top went down, now it won't go up (Cliff Sadler)
> 17. Re: top went down, now it won't go up (RBuy@aol.com)
> 18. RE: top went down, now it won't go up (Cliff Sadler)
> 19. raising the roof - part 2 (Cliff Sadler)
> 20. 1997 SL600 Purchase (Carol Hodgman)
> 21. Brake dust (Charles Held)
> 22. Re: Brake dust (RBuy@aol.com)
> 23. Re: Brake dust (Adam Gage)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 1
> From: "Carol Hodgman" <hodgman@rockbridge.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:04:27 -0700
> Organization: http://students.mwc.edu/~jhodg5ck/index.htm
> Subject: [R129 SL] 1997 600SL Purchase.
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Hello List,
> Just purchased a 1997 600SL w/ 31000 miles in Georgia. I'm flying down
> to look at this Friday and was curious if anyone had any tips for things
> I might look at. The care has 31000 miles, delivered to VA, lived in
> GA.
>
> Many Thanks!
> jonathan
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> From: "Michael Willnow" <mwillnow@lightspeed.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1997 600SL Purchase.
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 08:42:56 -0700
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Check the service records to see if it had the 30,000 mile service.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carol Hodgman" <hodgman@rockbridge.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 11:04 AM
> Subject: [R129 SL] 1997 600SL Purchase.
>
>
> > Hello List,
> > Just purchased a 1997 600SL w/ 31000 miles in Georgia. I'm flying down
> > to look at this Friday and was curious if anyone had any tips for things
> > I might look at. The care has 31000 miles, delivered to VA, lived in
> > GA.
> >
> > Many Thanks!
> > jonathan
> >
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
> >
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 13:59:16 -0700
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> From: John Collins <mbz@conceptualedge.com>
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1997 600SL Purchase.
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> At 11:04 AM -0700 7/15/03, Carol Hodgman wrote:
> >Just purchased a 1997 600SL w/ 31000 miles in Georgia. I'm flying down
> >to look at this Friday and was curious if anyone had any tips for things
> >I might look at. The care has 31000 miles, delivered to VA, lived in
> >GA.
>
> Sounds awesome. What color?
>
> Some of them leak oil. My 95 did in a couple of places: oil cooler line
'O' rings and pan gasket. My 99 doesn't leak at all.
>
> Get it looked at by an experienced mechanic if you can.
>
> I've had two of these cars and still find them amazing. Oh, and when you
pick it up, be sure to take a radar detector along. It's really hard to
crawl along at the speed limit.
> --
>
> John Collins
> Irvine, CA
> john@conceptualedge.com
> http://www.conceptualedge.com/
> ======================
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 4
> From: BeckyM65@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 02:57:07 EDT
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: [R129 SL] Top Hydraulic leak
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> I have a small amount of hydraulic fluid leaking just in front of the rear
> passenger tire about 8 inches in. This must be from the soft top
mechanism.Any
> hints on where or what to look for ? Anyone else have there system leak as
well
> ? Thanks
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 5
> From: "Satish Tummala" <satish@tummala.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] Top Hydraulic leak
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:42:20 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> You may have to take apart the rear carpeted liner to see which
> hydraulic line is leaking. Hopefully (and most likely) it's just a
> loose fitting that you can tighten up. There are dozens of hydraulic
> lines in the R129. The only way to find out which one is leaking is to
> remove the liner.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]
> On Behalf Of BeckyM65@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 2:57 AM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: [R129 SL] Top Hydraulic leak
>
>
> I have a small amount of hydraulic fluid leaking just in front of the
> rear
> passenger tire about 8 inches in. This must be from the soft top
> mechanism.Any
> hints on where or what to look for ? Anyone else have there system leak
> as well
> ? Thanks
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 6
> From: pngreene@earthlink.net
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:15:37 -0500
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Top Hydraulic leak
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Usually the hydraulic pistons that push the top cover up are to
> blame first...remove the carpet in the back of the trunk (in front)....on
> the right and left are pistons visible....they run about $135
> (discounted) each and you can do it yourself, if so inclined....check
> them on the top where the pin going into the piston is....try the
> mechanism up and down, if the sides of the piston are wet...well,
> that's them....
> -patrick greene
> www.patrickgreene.net
>
>
> On 16 Jul 2003 at 2:57, BeckyM65@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I have a small amount of hydraulic fluid leaking just in front of the
rear
> > passenger tire about 8 inches in. This must be from the soft top
mechanism.Any
> > hints on where or what to look for ? Anyone else have there system leak
as well
> > ? Thanks
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 23:45:39 -0700
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [R129 SL] Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> --=======18B513B5=======
> Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-669765C; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>
> I've been searching for an understandable (to me) oil viscosity/ambient
> temperature chart. I've been to the Mobil 1 site and punched in my "list"
> of cars, only one shows up, and I'm not exactly thrilled with the
> recommendation the site gives me for it.
> So, if any kind soul out there wants to de-mystify what Mobil 1 oils I
> should use in the following (short) list of cars, please feel free to do
so
> and accept my undying gratitude and thanks.
>
> 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E 3.0 liter SOHC
> 1990 Acura Integra GS hatchback 1.8 liter DOHC
> 1978 Ferrari 308gt4 3.0 liter quad cam
>
> The cars live in Hereford, Arizona where in the summer it gets down to
> around 60F for a low and can get up to 100F for highs. In the winter,
> temps fall to around freezing or perhaps a bit below occasionally, and the
> highs are around 50F.
>
> Thanks very much again,
> Tom Reynolds
> Hereford, AZ
>
> --=======18B513B5=======
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-avg=cert;
x-avg-checked=avg-ok-669765C
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.500 / Virus Database: 298 - Release Date: 07/10/2003
>
> --=======18B513B5=======--
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 8
> From: "Steve Sims" <Steve@Sims.NU>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question
> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 06:41:57 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Gee, Tom... Having nothing but my prejudice to rely on, I'd recommend
> Mobil-1 15W50 for all of them, year round.
>
> That's what I use everything in own, right down to the lawn tractor. And
> while it doesn't get quite as warm in Richmond and it does in Hereford, it
> does get quite a bit colder, and the 15W50 is still fine.
>
> I don't have any way to "de-mystify" the question, beyond telling you what
I
> do, and what works for me.
>
> ...sjs...
> Richmond, VA
> '97 SL500
> &c.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Reynolds
>
> So, if any kind soul out there wants to de-mystify what Mobil 1 oils I
> should use in the following (short) list of cars, please feel free to do
so
> and accept my undying gratitude and thanks.
>
> 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E 3.0 liter SOHC
> 1990 Acura Integra GS hatchback 1.8 liter DOHC
> 1978 Ferrari 308gt4 3.0 liter quad cam
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 9
> From: "Satish Tummala" <satish@tummala.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question
> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:46:58 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Well not sure about the others but if using Mobil 1 for your 300E, use
> 15W-50 trisynthetic year round.
>
> Satish
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]
> On Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 2:46 AM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: [R129 SL] Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question
>
>
> I've been searching for an understandable (to me) oil viscosity/ambient
> temperature chart. I've been to the Mobil 1 site and punched in my
> "list" of cars, only one shows up, and I'm not exactly thrilled with the
> recommendation the site gives me for it.
> So, if any kind soul out there wants to de-mystify what Mobil 1 oils I
> should use in the following (short) list of cars, please feel free to do
> so and accept my undying gratitude and thanks.
>
> 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E 3.0 liter SOHC
> 1990 Acura Integra GS hatchback 1.8 liter DOHC
> 1978 Ferrari 308gt4 3.0 liter quad cam
>
> The cars live in Hereford, Arizona where in the summer it gets down to
> around 60F for a low and can get up to 100F for highs. In the winter,
> temps fall to around freezing or perhaps a bit below occasionally, and
> the highs are around 50F.
>
> Thanks very much again,
> Tom Reynolds
> Hereford, AZ
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:33:01 -0700
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> From: Tom Reynolds <kjtar@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] Non SL but an oil (Mobil 1) related question
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> --=======544F50E6=======
> Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-66F05F8D; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>
> Thanks Steve and Satish for Mobil 1 recommendation,
> You both just made my day easier, as you both recommended 15W-50,
> which I *think* was what was used in the F car as well. Time to go
> shopping and thanks both of you again!
> Best,
> Tom
>
> At 06:41 AM 07/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >Gee, Tom... Having nothing but my prejudice to rely on, I'd recommend
> >Mobil-1 15W50 for all of them, year round.
> >
> >That's what I use everything in own, right down to the lawn tractor. And
> >while it doesn't get quite as warm in Richmond and it does in Hereford,
it
> >does get quite a bit colder, and the 15W50 is still fine.
> >
> >I don't have any way to "de-mystify" the question, beyond telling you
what I
> >do, and what works for me.
> >
> >...sjs...
> >Richmond, VA
> >'97 SL500
> >&c.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Tom Reynolds
> >
> >So, if any kind soul out there wants to de-mystify what Mobil 1 oils I
> >should use in the following (short) list of cars, please feel free to do
so
> >and accept my undying gratitude and thanks.
> >
> >1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E 3.0 liter SOHC
> >1990 Acura Integra GS hatchback 1.8 liter DOHC
> >1978 Ferrari 308gt4 3.0 liter quad cam
> >
> >
> >The MB Coupes Website!
> >R129 SL Mailing List
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.500 / Virus Database: 298 - Release Date: 07/10/2003
> >
>
> --=======544F50E6=======
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-avg=cert;
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> Content-Disposition: inline
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.500 / Virus Database: 298 - Release Date: 07/10/2003
>
> --=======544F50E6=======--
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 11
> From: "Adam Gage" <ADAPL12@ADELPHIA.NET>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:15:44 -0700
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Don't know if the car starts off in first, probably in second, but I don't
> think it's a tranny problem. There's a definite hesitation, like it's
> choking, and then it flys forward after stepping on the gas. This only
> happens when the AC is on and I've been driving the car for awhile. I'm a
> little hesitant to take it to a dealer so they can "experiment" - nearest
> one is in San Deigo or Phoenix. Any recommendations for a dealer if
anyone
> has had this problem?
>
> Thanks list!
> Adam
> (P.S. this list is great for info when there's no one to ask!)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Alvamike@aol.com>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 4:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> > Adam and all,
> > Is the car supposed to START off in 1st?? I think I figured out the
> problem with the shifting. I found the rubber cover over the vacuum
> modulator was very cracked. I replaced it and it shifts 1000%
> better......but it starts in 1st. Is this right?? Runs great !!!!
> > Mike in Morgantown, PA
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
> >
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 12
> From: "Cliff Sadler" <sadler@comcast.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] 300 SL
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:21:47 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> I'm having a similar problem, and ran across this info from the archives:
>
> Stumble problem after warmed up
>
> I have a '91 500sl with 71k mi. The car has been maintained well during
> its life. I live in Va Beach, Va at sea level. The car runs great when
cold
> but after driving 15-30
> min., the car will stumble and hesitate on acceleration as if a
> cylinder or 2 is not firing, especially in warm weather. I went to the
> mountains (3500 ft above sea level) and experienced no
> trouble even when hammering it out on winding mountain roads. It thrived
> on climbing the 9% grades.
> I took it to the dealer and they could not replicate the problem but
> replaced the distributer cap and rotor. They said it was running fine
> and passed all computer checks. I dont think they let it warm up enough.
> This did not solve the problem. The plugs are new and I just replaced the
> Oxygen sensor. Any ideas? I was
> thinking about replacing the fuel injectors.
>
>
>
> Try this, replace your fuel tank gas cap with a new 'Stant' gas
> cap.
> I was having same type problems, and the
> difference was amazing, something to do with proper tank and injector
> pressures. cost 5.oo
> I am convinced that a tune up consists
> of, cleaned battery cables, ,new plugs, distributor cap and rotor and a
> new gas cap (something that is almost never changed) Let us know if
> it works.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]On
> Behalf Of Adam Gage
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 7:16 PM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> Don't know if the car starts off in first, probably in second, but I don't
> think it's a tranny problem. There's a definite hesitation, like it's
> choking, and then it flys forward after stepping on the gas. This only
> happens when the AC is on and I've been driving the car for awhile. I'm a
> little hesitant to take it to a dealer so they can "experiment" - nearest
> one is in San Deigo or Phoenix. Any recommendations for a dealer if
anyone
> has had this problem?
>
> Thanks list!
> Adam
> (P.S. this list is great for info when there's no one to ask!)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Alvamike@aol.com>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 4:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> > Adam and all,
> > Is the car supposed to START off in 1st?? I think I figured out the
> problem with the shifting. I found the rubber cover over the vacuum
> modulator was very cracked. I replaced it and it shifts 1000%
> better......but it starts in 1st. Is this right?? Runs great !!!!
> > Mike in Morgantown, PA
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
> >
>
>
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 13
> From: "Cliff Sadler" <sadler@comcast.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:38:40 -0400
> Subject: [R129 SL] RE: shift knob replacement part 2
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
>
> OK. here goes. I'll have to post the pictures somewhere.
>
> To replace the shift knob on a 91-93 500SL, you'll have to replace the
shift
> arm as well because the knob is "fused" to the original arm. To replace
the
> arm, you will have to loosen the locking nut at the base of the shift arm,
> and then unscrew the arm from the shift lever, and boot. Sounds easy,
> except that the locking nut is 15mm, and there is virtually no way to get
a
> wrench into the shift gate to loosen the nut. If anyone comes up with a
> tool that will loosen, and subsequently tighten the nut through the shift
> gate, then most of the rest of this story can be ignored!
>
> The first thing you need is a new shift arm. I have found a source that
will
> sell me new chrome units for around 30.00 with shipping. I can do a gang
buy
> if I get a lot of requests to get shift arms. What I can do is set up an
> Ebay "buy it now" listing, and then let you know about it. I'd like to
get
> a show of hands here for how many might be needed.
>
> Second, you need to gain access to the locking nut on the shift arm so you
> can remove the original. Here's how you do that:
>
> You will have to remove the console cover. That requires first removing
the
> radio, and the temp control unit. THAT requires you to have the proper
> radio removal keys. You can pick these up on Ebay, or you can stop by a
> shop, give em a couple of bucks, and ask them to release your radio.
Circuit
> City is a good candidate for this. NOTE: when you remove the radio, and
> unplug it, you will have to enter the security code before it will work
> again. Make sure you have the security code, and the instructions for
> programming it.
>
> The steps for removing the console cover aren't that complicated, but you
do
> have to be careful with the wood veneer to avoid breaking it.
>
> I have attached 2 diagrams for removing the cover. IF this list doesn't
take
> attachments, then I will post the diagrams on a web site, and forward that
> link. Pay special attention to the technique for releasing the aft clips.
> You push from the right side of the cover, and lift up slightly on the
left
> back edge. Then you push from the left side, and lift up the right side.
> You can't do this until all of the screws, inserts, radio, and temp unit
are
> removed. I went ahead and unplugged the window, top, and mirror switches
in
> order to get the cover all the way out of the vehicle.
>
> Also, the harness assemblies for the temp control unit were puzzling for a
> bit. There is a lever on each harness that when slid towards you, will
> unlock the connector and remove it. when reinstalling, just put the
> connector on the unit, and slide the lever back to its original position.
>
> Once you have the cover off, then you can remove the shift gate cover and
> slide it up the shift arm, and turn it so it's out of the way. This is
> accomplished by releasing the 2 clips on the front, and left side of the
> shift gate, and then the large clip on the rear. Mine was tight enough
that
> I had to reach under the tabs, and pull out slightly with my finger while
> pulling up on the gate cover. Then, take a 15mm open end wrench, and turn
> the locking nut counterclockwise. Shouldn't take much for it to get loose.
> As soon as it is free, you can unscrew the existing shift arm. The threads
> are about an inch long and metric, so it will take a few turns to get it
> out.
> When you pull the arm out, the receiver will spring to the left. Don't be
> alarmed. When you screw the new shaft in, you'll have to reach into the
> shift boot, and hold the receiver vertical until you get the threads
started
> on the new arm. BEFORE you screw in the new arm, first thread the locking
> nut onto the new arm. You won't be able to just drop the nut over the new
> arm. It's too thick in some spots.
> Screw in the new arm, positioning the arc in the shift arm correctly, and
> then using the 15mm wrench, tighten the locking nut.
> It helps to use a wrench with the thinnest claw you can find.
> Now, you can replace the shift gate cover, and the console in reverse
steps.
> With everything on, now you can put your new knob onto the shift arm. I
have
> found that the one from Canada takes the large bushing insert, and you
> should drill out the bushing where the set screws go, and use the long set
> screws in the pack. This will enable the set screws to contact the shaft,
> reducing the likelyhood that the knob could turn.
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 14
> From: "Satish Tummala" <satish@tummala.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] 300 SL
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:42:29 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Fuel injectors, injector seals, and rubber air rails are a BIG problem
> in 1990-1992 CIS-based M119.960 5.0L engines. If you've replaced
> distributor cap and rotor, plugs, have ruled out plug wires, and your
> coils are good (have you tested these?), fuel injection nozzles are most
> likely the culprit. This is usually the case in many CIS-E cars. I had
> a friend with a '92 500SL with a rough idle issue. The pristine
> black/palomino car was as it came from a time capsule. Low mileage for
> the year as well; around 50K. However, the idle issue at above
> 70degreeF outside temps was obvious. Deciding to isolate spark from
> fuel, I swapped both distributor caps and plugs (remember to do the cam
> seals at the time of distributor rotor replacement) and it nearly solved
> 95% of the problem. To smooth out the car completely would require fuel
> injector replacement. In his case, the car ran so good, it wasn't
> really necessary.
>
> So, your intuition of fuel system fault is probably correct.
>
> Satish
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]
> On Behalf Of Cliff Sadler
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 9:22 AM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> I'm having a similar problem, and ran across this info from the
> archives:
>
> Stumble problem after warmed up
>
> I have a '91 500sl with 71k mi. The car has been maintained well during
> its life. I live in Va Beach, Va at sea level. The car runs great when
> cold but after driving 15-30 min., the car will stumble and hesitate on
> acceleration as if a cylinder or 2 is not firing, especially in warm
> weather. I went to the mountains (3500 ft above sea level) and
> experienced no trouble even when hammering it out on winding mountain
> roads. It thrived on climbing the 9% grades.
> I took it to the dealer and they could not replicate the problem but
> replaced the distributer cap and rotor. They said it was running fine
> and passed all computer checks. I dont think they let it warm up enough.
> This did not solve the problem. The plugs are new and I just replaced
> the Oxygen sensor. Any ideas? I was thinking about replacing the fuel
> injectors.
>
>
>
> Try this, replace your fuel tank gas cap with a new 'Stant' gas
> cap.
> I was having same type problems, and the
> difference was amazing, something to do with proper tank and injector
> pressures. cost 5.oo
> I am convinced that a tune up consists
> of, cleaned battery cables, ,new plugs, distributor cap and rotor and a
> new gas cap (something that is almost never changed) Let us know if
> it works.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]On
> Behalf Of Adam Gage
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 7:16 PM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> Don't know if the car starts off in first, probably in second, but I
> don't think it's a tranny problem. There's a definite hesitation, like
> it's choking, and then it flys forward after stepping on the gas. This
> only happens when the AC is on and I've been driving the car for awhile.
> I'm a little hesitant to take it to a dealer so they can "experiment" -
> nearest one is in San Deigo or Phoenix. Any recommendations for a
> dealer if anyone has had this problem?
>
> Thanks list!
> Adam
> (P.S. this list is great for info when there's no one to ask!)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Alvamike@aol.com>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 4:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> > Adam and all,
> > Is the car supposed to START off in 1st?? I think I figured out the
> problem with the shifting. I found the rubber cover over the vacuum
> modulator was very cracked. I replaced it and it shifts 1000%
> better......but it starts in 1st. Is this right?? Runs great !!!!
> > Mike in Morgantown, PA
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
> >
>
>
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 15
> From: Kirk Jones <Kirk.Jones@rci.rogers.com>
> To: "'r129list@mbcoupes.com'" <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] 300 SL
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:56:11 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> I too have a similar problem. When warmed up on a mild acceleration my 87
> 560sl seems to stumble as if there was an ignition miss, yet on a slightly
> harder acceleration it is not apparent and performance is great. Have
> checked plugs, cap and rotor and all seem to be fine. Considered
replacement
> of ignition wires but at $300 I'll try the gas cap first.
>
> Have not had the car long enough to know how it performs in cooler
> temperatures.
>
>
> Kirk
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cliff Sadler [mailto:sadler@comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 9:22 AM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
> I'm having a similar problem, and ran across this info from the archives:
>
> Stumble problem after warmed up
>
> I have a '91 500sl with 71k mi. The car has been maintained well during
> its life. I live in Va Beach, Va at sea level. The car runs great when
cold
> but after driving 15-30
> min., the car will stumble and hesitate on acceleration as if a
> cylinder or 2 is not firing, especially in warm weather. I went to the
> mountains (3500 ft above sea level) and experienced no
> trouble even when hammering it out on winding mountain roads. It thrived
> on climbing the 9% grades.
> I took it to the dealer and they could not replicate the problem but
> replaced the distributer cap and rotor. They said it was running fine
> and passed all computer checks. I dont think they let it warm up enough.
> This did not solve the problem. The plugs are new and I just replaced the
> Oxygen sensor. Any ideas? I was
> thinking about replacing the fuel injectors.
>
>
>
> Try this, replace your fuel tank gas cap with a new 'Stant' gas
> cap.
> I was having same type problems, and the
> difference was amazing, something to do with proper tank and injector
> pressures. cost 5.oo
> I am convinced that a tune up consists
> of, cleaned battery cables, ,new plugs, distributor cap and rotor and a
> new gas cap (something that is almost never changed) Let us know if
> it works.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]On
> Behalf Of Adam Gage
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 7:16 PM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> Don't know if the car starts off in first, probably in second, but I don't
> think it's a tranny problem. There's a definite hesitation, like it's
> choking, and then it flys forward after stepping on the gas. This only
> happens when the AC is on and I've been driving the car for awhile. I'm a
> little hesitant to take it to a dealer so they can "experiment" - nearest
> one is in San Deigo or Phoenix. Any recommendations for a dealer if
anyone
> has had this problem?
>
> Thanks list!
> Adam
> (P.S. this list is great for info when there's no one to ask!)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Alvamike@aol.com>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 4:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 300 SL
>
>
> > Adam and all,
> > Is the car supposed to START off in 1st?? I think I figured out the
> problem with the shifting. I found the rubber cover over the vacuum
> modulator was very cracked. I replaced it and it shifts 1000%
> better......but it starts in 1st. Is this right?? Runs great !!!!
> > Mike in Morgantown, PA
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
> >
>
>
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 16
> From: "Cliff Sadler" <sadler@comcast.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 16:22:43 -0400
> Subject: [R129 SL] top went down, now it won't go up
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
>
> For the past week or so, the top has intermittently not wanted to raise.
> Pushing the top button and holding for a few seconds will lower the
windows
> and roll bar, and then you can hear some relay clicking, but nothing
> happens. After a few tries, suddenly the top would raise.
>
> Yesterday, it quit for good. Reading some other posts, there was a
> discussion of resetting the window limits by raising, and lowering the
> windows with a hold at each end of 5 seconds.
> That didn't help at all. So, last night, I put the hard top back on
thinking
> that some sensor thought the hard top was on so it wouldn't raise the soft
> top.
> Well, it locked down just fine, but now won't release.
>
> If I push the button forward, I can see the hydraulics pulling the top
down,
> so I know that there is enough pressure to move the top.
>
> Now, I think I may be in a quandry as there is no way to raise the soft
top
> without first removing the hard top.
>
> The fuses, although old, are ok, and there is no corrosion around the
> contacts. The fusable link below the set of fuses for the hydraulic
motors
> is ok, and not loose.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 17
> From: RBuy@aol.com
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 16:34:27 EDT
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] top went down, now it won't go up
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
>
> --part1_50.1fd3060c.2c49b3d3_boundary
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> I had the same problem, on the drivers side over your left shoulder where
the
> hinges fold up there is a small micro switch that the top should hit when
it
> folds down, if it misses it won't go back up, look around a little you
will
> find it.
>
> --part1_50.1fd3060c.2c49b3d3_boundary
> Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"
FACE=
> =3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I had the same problem, on the drivers side over
your=20=
> left shoulder where the hinges fold up there is a small micro switch that
th=
> e top should hit when it folds down, if it misses it won't go back up,
look=20=
> around a little you will find it.</FONT></HTML>
>
> --part1_50.1fd3060c.2c49b3d3_boundary--
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 18
> From: "Cliff Sadler" <sadler@comcast.net>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: RE: [R129 SL] top went down, now it won't go up
> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 18:37:02 -0400
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34D5B.94A638B0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="us-ascii"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> found that switch. the frame of the top did contact that lever that trips
> that switch, so I don't think that's the issue.
> I have manually released the hard top, removed it, and manually raised the
> soft top.
>
> Still isn't working. thanks anyway
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]On
> Behalf Of RBuy@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 3:34 PM
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] top went down, now it won't go up
>
>
> I had the same problem, on the drivers side over your left shoulder
where
> the hinges fold up there is a small micro switch that the top should hit
> when it folds down, if it misses it won't go back up, look around a little
> you will find it.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34D5B.94A638B0
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="us-ascii"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Dus-ascii">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2723.2500" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
> <BODY>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D776122322-18072003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
> size=3D2>found=20
> that switch. the frame of the top did contact that lever that trips that =
> switch,=20
> so I don't think that's the issue.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D776122322-18072003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
> size=3D2>I have=20
> manually released the hard top, removed it, and manually raised the soft =
>
> top. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D776122322-18072003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
>
> size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D776122322-18072003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
> size=3D2>Still=20
> isn't working. thanks anyway</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D776122322-18072003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
>
> size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE>
> <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
> face=3DTahoma=20
> size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
> r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com=20
> [mailto:r129list-admin@mbcoupes.com]<B>On Behalf Of=20
> </B>RBuy@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 18, 2003 3:34 =
> PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
> r129list@mbcoupes.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [R129 SL] top went down, =
> now it=20
> won't go up<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
> lang=3D0=20
> face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I had the same problem, on =
> the drivers=20
> side over your left shoulder where the hinges fold up there is a small =
> micro=20
> switch that the top should hit when it folds down, if it misses it =
> won't go=20
> back up, look around a little you will find it.</FONT>=20
> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34D5B.94A638B0--
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 19
> From: "Cliff Sadler" <sadler@comcast.net>
> To: "R129list@Mbcoupes. Com" <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 11:29:49 -0400
> Subject: [R129 SL] raising the roof - part 2
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34DE9.10347D60
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>
>
> Did some more experimenting last night and this morning (thank heaven for
> the hard top hoist!)
>
> I manually released and removed the hard top.
>
> I tried to raise the soft top electrically. No go, but if the windows and
> roll bar were up, they would lower (first part of the sequence)
> I manually raised the soft top
>
> I tried to lower the soft top electrically, No go, but if the windows and
> roll bar were down, they would raise (last part of the sequence)
> I manually lowered the soft top.
>
> I replaced the hard top, but didn't lock it down
> I tried to electrically lock the hard top. That worked!
>
> I tried to electrically unlock the hard top. No go
>
> I disconnected the battery ground cable to "reset" the vehicle.
> Had to recode the radio, but nothing changed with the top
>
>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34DE9.10347D60
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> ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34DE9.10347D60--
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 20
> From: "Carol Hodgman" <hodgman@rockbridge.net>
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 20:39:45 -0400
> Subject: [R129 SL] 1997 SL600 Purchase
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> Michael and John,
> Thanks for the reply. I just got to see the car today and it is Beautiful
shape, looks more like it has 5,000 miles on it. In regards to service, it
did have it's 30000 mile service just done, it also received a new set of
mich. pilot sports and two new front accumulators (this owner has only
driven the car about 10000 miles since he bought it in 99). The local
dealership picked over the car and discovered the bad accumulators but the
rest of the inspection was perfect.
> Only option it is lacking is the CD changer, but I imagine i can find one
fairly readily on ebay etc..
>
> And I brought my V1 and my scanner along for the ride home;-)
>
> Regards
> jonathan
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 21
> From: "Charles Held" <cheld@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:38:31 -0400
> Subject: [R129 SL] Brake dust
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C357B4.785CE6F0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> OK, I know I can't be the only one suffering from insufferable brake dust
> after driving, oh, three miles in my '92 500SL. So how does everyone deal
> with it? I know of some good wheel cleaners, like Eagle and Meguiar's,
but
> I'm looking more for prevention, not cure. Tried KleenWheels and they
> messed with the steering, so they're out. Any pad that provides
comparable
> stopping power without that big ol' cloud of black? Help!
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C357B4.785CE6F0
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
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>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
> <BODY>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D408583502-01082003><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>OK, I =
> know I can't=20
> be the only one suffering from insufferable brake dust after driving, =
> oh, three=20
> miles in my '92 500SL. So how does everyone deal with it? I =
> know of=20
> some good wheel cleaners, like Eagle and Meguiar's, but I'm looking more =
> for=20
> prevention, not cure. Tried KleenWheels and they messed with the =
> steering,=20
> so they're out. Any pad that provides comparable stopping power =
> without=20
> that big ol' cloud of black? =
> Help!</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C357B4.785CE6F0--
>
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:17:44 -0400
> From: RBuy@aol.com
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Brake dust
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> I went to tirerack.com and bought the pads they offer ERC, ELC something
like that they are green or red, so far so good no noise and very little
dust.
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 23
> From: "Adam Gage" <ADAPL12@ADELPHIA.NET>
> To: <r129list@mbcoupes.com>
> Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Brake dust
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:43:08 -0700
> Reply-To: r129list@mbcoupes.com
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
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> MessageLet me know how those work - I've got polished rims that look =
> good for about three miles, as you say...
>
> thanks,
> adam
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: Charles Held=20
> To: r129list@mbcoupes.com=20
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 7:38 PM
> Subject: [R129 SL] Brake dust
>
>
> OK, I know I can't be the only one suffering from insufferable brake =
> dust after driving, oh, three miles in my '92 500SL. So how does =
> everyone deal with it? I know of some good wheel cleaners, like Eagle =
> and Meguiar's, but I'm looking more for prevention, not cure. Tried =
> KleenWheels and they messed with the steering, so they're out. Any pad =
> that provides comparable stopping power without that big ol' cloud of =
> black? Help!
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>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Message</TITLE>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Let me know how those work - I've got =
> polished rims=20
> that look good for about three miles, as you say...</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks,</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>adam</FONT></DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> <DIV=20
> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> black"><B>From:</B>=20
> <A title=3Dcheld@carolina.rr.com =
> href=3D"mailto:cheld@carolina.rr.com">Charles=20
> Held</A> </DIV>
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
> title=3Dr129list@mbcoupes.com=20
> href=3D"mailto:r129list@mbcoupes.com">r129list@mbcoupes.com</A> </DIV>
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, July 31, 2003 =
> 7:38=20
> PM</DIV>
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [R129 SL] Brake =
> dust</DIV>
> <DIV><BR></DIV>
> <DIV><SPAN class=3D408583502-01082003><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>OK, =
> I know I can't=20
> be the only one suffering from insufferable brake dust after driving, =
> oh,=20
> three miles in my '92 500SL. So how does everyone deal with =
> it? I=20
> know of some good wheel cleaners, like Eagle and Meguiar's, but I'm =
> looking=20
> more for prevention, not cure. Tried KleenWheels and they messed =
> with=20
> the steering, so they're out. Any pad that provides comparable =
> stopping=20
> power without that big ol' cloud of black? =20
> Help!</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>
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> End of R129LIST Digest