[LargeFormat] 35mm lenses on LF

[john frost]

Ada sez thanks for the formula translations. She will pass it on those
that need to know....
john (:>)

"Penne, Phil" wrote:
> 
> 'Preciate the info!  Is there some formula by which degree of coverage can be calculated?  I'm something of a math geek, but the only formula I could come up with was...
> 
> Where pi*r^2=area (a):
> 
> (pi*r^2*s^2)/2 = (as^2)/2 = 1/2as^2 = 1/2ass
> 
> ...but that didn't seem to do the trick.
> 
> Can't help but notice that nude models enter into the picture again.
> 
> We're keeping an eye on you...and your models.
> 
> Phil "Never take candy from a redhead" Penne
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rstein [mailto:rstein@bigpond.net.au]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 2:24 AM
> To: largeformat@f32.net
> Subject: Re: [LargeFormat] 35mm lenses on LF
> 
> Dear Phil,
> 
>      Listen not to the naysayers - your 135mm tele lens from the 35mm system
> is perfectly usable on the 8 x 10 view camera. You just have to be prepared
> to use it repeatedly.
> 
>     1. Measure the closest distance that the front standard will go to the
> film plane on the 8 x 10. Then measure the flange to film plane distance in
> your 35mm camera. If the 135 can focus onto the 35mm film, it can focus onto
> the film plane of the 8 x 10. You can check and see if this is feasible by
> holding the 135 in front of the ground glass and point it at a distant
> object while looking at the little circular image in the screen.
> 
>     If you intend to use it to take portraits, you can focus out with the
> front standard soemwhat.
> 
> 2.     Once you have seen if it works, and the size of the little circular
> picture - someone suggested about 2 inches or so - you can see how many of
> these images you can stack onto the 8 x 10 film. 2 across and 3 down with a
> decent space between them sound right? Cut a wooden or cardboard front lens
> board for the 8 x 10 with a suitable number of circular holes big enough to
> hold the 135. Also cut some plugs to occlude the holes that are not being
> used. Mounting board is cheap and you can fasten it with gaffer tape.
> 
> 3.    Now you can set up the camera, a nude model, a set of strobe lights in
> a dark studio and proceed to make delightful vignetted Victorian panels.
> Each little pictuer will fade out to black in between and appear as a small
> glowing cameo. The lens is moved between shots, with the darkslide in place
> and the holes plugged up in order, and the shutter is no more than an open
> lens cap and the strobes fired open flash.
> 
>     You can make the model pose in a series of different portraits or go for
> full length shots. Try a number of variations - 3/4 Front, Profile,
> Landmine, Bucket O' Frogs. Do all the classic ones. Tone the finished
> product and it will be a gem!
> 
>  Uncle Dick
> 
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