[LargeFormat] 35mm lenses on LF

[Penne, Phil]

'Preciate the info!  Is there some formula by which degree of coverage =
can be calculated?  I'm something of a math geek, but the only formula I =
could come up with was...

Where pi*r^2=3Darea (a):

(pi*r^2*s^2)/2 =3D (as^2)/2 =3D 1/2as^2 =3D 1/2ass

...but that didn't seem to do the trick.

Can't help but notice that nude models enter into the picture again.

We're keeping an eye on you...and your models.

Phil "Never take candy from a redhead" Penne


-----Original Message-----
From: rstein [mailto:rstein@bigpond.net.au]
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 2:24 AM
To: largeformat@f32.net
Subject: Re: [LargeFormat] 35mm lenses on LF


Dear Phil,

     Listen not to the naysayers - your 135mm tele lens from the 35mm =
system
is perfectly usable on the 8 x 10 view camera. You just have to be =
prepared
to use it repeatedly.

    1. Measure the closest distance that the front standard will go to =
the
film plane on the 8 x 10. Then measure the flange to film plane distance =
in
your 35mm camera. If the 135 can focus onto the 35mm film, it can focus =
onto
the film plane of the 8 x 10. You can check and see if this is feasible =
by
holding the 135 in front of the ground glass and point it at a distant
object while looking at the little circular image in the screen.

    If you intend to use it to take portraits, you can focus out with =
the
front standard soemwhat.

2.     Once you have seen if it works, and the size of the little =
circular
picture - someone suggested about 2 inches or so - you can see how many =
of
these images you can stack onto the 8 x 10 film. 2 across and 3 down =
with a
decent space between them sound right? Cut a wooden or cardboard front =
lens
board for the 8 x 10 with a suitable number of circular holes big enough =
to
hold the 135. Also cut some plugs to occlude the holes that are not =
being
used. Mounting board is cheap and you can fasten it with gaffer tape.

3.    Now you can set up the camera, a nude model, a set of strobe =
lights in
a dark studio and proceed to make delightful vignetted Victorian panels.
Each little pictuer will fade out to black in between and appear as a =
small
glowing cameo. The lens is moved between shots, with the darkslide in =
place
and the holes plugged up in order, and the shutter is no more than an =
open
lens cap and the strobes fired open flash.

    You can make the model pose in a series of different portraits or go =
for
full length shots. Try a number of variations - 3/4 Front, Profile,
Landmine, Bucket O' Frogs. Do all the classic ones. Tone the finished
product and it will be a gem!

 Uncle Dick



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