[LargeFormat] UK lens/shutter repairers

[Clive Warren]

At 11:09 27/07/01 +0100, LargeFormat@davidmorton.org wrote:
>Clive Warren wrote|:
>>
>>"Probably worth getting the shutter CLA'd - probably a lot of dust
>>mixed up with that old oil!
>>
>>The thread on the front softness control is very fine so be careful with it
>>- probably best to allow the repairer to dismantle and clean the thing
>>completely. Sounds as if some paint may have reached the threads."
>
>I've managed to twist the softness control to the 0 setting, and don't
>intend to move it again until I've had it looked at. I *really* don't want
>it seizing on the soft setting. Looking at it again last night the front
>ring isn't round, so I think it's had a knock and that's why it's stiff.
>
>How complex are the shutters internally? I've repaired clocks and some quite
>complex machanical devices in the past (I did an engineering degree decades
>ago).
>
>A Google web search produced some interesting stuff about this lens,
>specifically a comment - here
>http://hv.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=004tsm - that it
>was quite low contrast and that "for landscapes, plan on developing a lot of
>film at N+2". In that context, what kind of film/dev/speed/soup combination
>works well with this lens?

The out of roundness of the front ring can be fixed by someone with the 
appropriate skills and equipment. Best not to even try yourself unless you 
have the right kit - ie expanding internal vice.

The original studio shutters were a royal pain if we are to believe the 
stories posted in various places. Essentially if they do not work then it 
is probably not worthwhile attempting a repair.

Betax or Alphax shutters are a better bet but are now very old themselves 
so some will have suffered more than others depending on how often they 
were CLAd etc. If you are happy inside clocks then shutters should not hold 
too many problems for you - they are a bit closer to a pocket watch than a 
clock in terms of components. The main thing to do is to clean, degrease 
and then very sparingly oil the cog spindles and sliding plates etc.

Any elongation of spindle holes will have an effect on the slower speeds 
and in the worst case will jam the shutter as the cogs jump out of mesh.... 
I use mine with strobe so it is not so much of a problem - open shutter, 
fire strobe, close shutter :-)

As for film - just use your favourite and test the lens at its various 
settings. On the zero fuzz setting the lens delivers sharp images which are 
a bit lower in contrast compared to modern coated glass - in other words, 
nice :-) I would be more tempted to play around in the darkroom rather than 
increasing dev to push the contrast.  If I want a razor sharp contrasty 
image then the 12" Commercial Ektar is the lens of choice.

Did you find the other threads in the old list archive on f32.net? 
http://www.f32.net/Services/LFarch.html


All the best,
                 Clive   http://www.cocam.co.uk
                         Photographic Services, Filters & Equipment, 
Infrared FAQ
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