[Jacob-list] Worming question

[Linda]

When the vet was here last month to do health certificates for some sheep going out of state, she was telling me that the vet school is now saying that you should only worm when indicated and only worm those sheep that need it, and check the eyelids to determine who might be anemic.  Years ago, a friend and fellow Jacob breeder at that time, told me that checking the eyelid was way more effective than checking gums, so I've done that.  We also worm as needed - not on a schedule.  I wasn't familiar with famacha, but did some reading and it sounds like the sort of common sense worming procedure that we've advocated for a number of years and much more in keeping with the needs of a flock than wholesale across the board worming.

If I ever get a chance to take an official class, I'll sure jump on it.

Linda
What's New at Patchwork Farm?

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 13:54:07 -0700 (PDT), Joy Thomas, SonRise Farm wrote:
> I would strongly suggest checking with a large animal vet, familiar
> with ruminants, in your area.
>
> As Kate mentioned, worming protocol depends on your location as
> well as breed of sheep and your facility (acreage, # of sheep/acre,
> etc.)
>
> I had a very bad year due to haemonchus contortus (barber pole)
> worms 2 years ago. Lost 6 lambs and 1 adult. Learned a LOT from my
> vet and local necrospy lab.
>
> I, too, use FAMACHA (and was VERY glad to be able to take the
> official class in June of this year), check my flock's condition
> score regularly, keep them "tame" by feeding grain year round
> (sometimes just a handful, but VERY helpful for keeping them
> cooperative for eyelid checks), and only worm when I NEED to worm.
> I also only worm the animals that NEED worming (pale eyelids,
> lambs, pregant and just birthed ewes).
>
> Check with your vet to find out what wormer(s) are most effective
> in your area. I was also taught not to rotate wormers each time.  I
> now use one until I see increased fecal egg counts, then switch to
> a different wormer. This will mean I "rotate" wormers, but will
> most likely use one for several year, then another for several
> years, etc.
>
> For my particular acreage/location/flock size, my vet recommended I
> stay with commercially-prepared wormers and not use herbal wormers.
>  This, too, depends on your location, acreage, set-up.
>
> Hope this helps!
> Joy
>
> Joyce M. Thomas
> Son Rise Farm & Rabbitry, Creedmoor NC
> Hand spun yarns, custom knit & triloom woven items
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>
>
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