[R129 SL] R129 defroster problem

Gail & Doug Wolvington grwdew at bellsouth.net
Sun Dec 14 16:41:50 EST 2008

My husband, said he thought, he did not hear the compressor coming on.

Gail & Doug Wolvington
grwdew at bellsouth.net
From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 2:03 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 5


Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to
r129list at mbcoupes.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. Re: 1991 300sl, defrost problem? (chris wadlow)
2. Re: 1991 300sl, defrost problem? (Satish Tummala)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:00:50 +0000
From: chris wadlow <wadlowchris at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <BAY127-W1588F612143BB473C7EC95AAF70 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"


Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine
loosing coolant ?
Chris.



From: satish at tummala.netTo: grwdew at bellsouth.net;
r129list at mbcoupes.comDate: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500Subject: Re: [R129
SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?





Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when
the defroster is on.



From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Gail & Doug WolvingtonSent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46
PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?


My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it
is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better
on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on
windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield
& then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep
it wiped so I can see.



After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on
start up.



Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep
windshield from fogging but is bit chilly.



any suggestions?



Gail & Doug Wolvington

1991 300sl

Bossier City, LAgrwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV>


From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>

Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM

To: r129list at mbcoupes.com

Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3


Send R129LIST mailing list submissions tor129list at mbcoupes.comTo subscribe
or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visithttp://www.pairli
st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129listor, via email, send a message with subject
or body 'help' tor129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>You can reach the person
managing the list atr129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR>When replying, please
edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of R129LIST
digest..."Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2.
STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office.
(sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar)
4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make
it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan
Hodgman)------------------------------------------------------ ----------------Message:
1Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700From: "gerhard stefandl"
<gstefandl at cox.net>Subject: [R129 SL] r129
sticky windowTo: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928
6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"I have a
'94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that
the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am
afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise
how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window
mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML
attachment was scrubbed...URL:
<http://www.pairlist.net/pipermail/r129list/attachments
/20081213/e6c3dcd5/attachment.html>-------------------------- ----Message:
2Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800From: sautry at teknorapex.comSubject:
[R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out ofthe office.To:
SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>Messa
ge-ID:<OF59856DA8.53F22593-ON8825751F.00002014-8825751F.00002014 at tekno
rapex.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-
ASCIII will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return
until12/15/2008.I will respond to your message when I
return.------------------------------Message: 3Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008
21:50:03 -0500From: Rob Vonderhaar <rob at robvonder.com>Subject: Re: [R129 SL]
r129 sticky windowTo: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>Messa
ge-ID:<2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene
t>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Here's a link to
step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes
color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect:
http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.htmlCan't give you much advice about the
mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look.
You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had
similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic
"clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position.
The
problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down
and wouldn't move in either direction.After pulling the door panel, the
problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside
of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the
door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the
bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal
standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the
motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on
those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator
up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts
fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity),
and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The
'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the
regulator, which also dest
royed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor
assembly.If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a
used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more
importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars
and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the
newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body
also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much
stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased
the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the
glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and
no more problems since then.Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar
Leesburg, VAPS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about
replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently
breaks on the older cars, and takes
only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise,
you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did...

:)From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A>

[mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandlSent:
Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129
SL] r129 sticky windowI have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when
I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get
the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of
cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have
advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next
part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL:
<http://www.pairlist.net/pipermail/r129list/attachments/
20081213/f76adcd7/attachment.htm>---------------------------- --Message:
4Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600From: "mid-co"
<mid-co at ix.netcom.com>Subject : Re: [R129 S
L] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.To: "SL Mailing List"
<r129list at mbcoupes.com>Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3
C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Thanks
for the good advice on the 129 elecwindow motors.I have a 1995 , sl 500.Has
anyone experienced a "clicking" when theTransmission is in reverse and under
load ?( no clicking when rolling backwards).Other than the clicking in
reverse , thetransmission shifts like it's brand new.Thanks in advance for
your thoughts.Bruce in Nashville.-------------- next part --------------An
HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL:
<http://www.pairlist.net/pipermail/r129list/attach
ments/20081213/d6d93843/attachment-0001.html>---------------- --------------Message:
5Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800From: "Steven A Hiett"
<shiett at charter.net>Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To:
<r129list at mbcoupes.com>Messa ge-ID:<20
081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>Content-T ype:
text/plai
n; charset="us-ascii"Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about
souping up our 1992 SL?Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles.
Though clean and with agood history it required some catch-up maintenance.
After running the MBService info gauntlet we now have enough information
(factory authorized CD,Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series -
thanksBooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've
notfound is information about modifications and parts to boost the
performanceand reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB
specialtyshop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their
own? Arethere articles available where these Pros share their knowledge?
Living inCentral Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL
but notmany (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks,
Steve Hiett-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was
scrubbed...URL: <http://www
.pairlist.net/pipermail/r129list/attachments/
20081213/2531bc9f/attachment.htm>---------------------------- --Message:
6Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500From: "Jonathan Hodgman"
<jhodgman at gmail.com>Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: "SL Mailing
List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>Messa ge-ID:<
1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>Conte nt-Type:
text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Hello Steve,Well, your options are limited
to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6Lvarient w/ stand alone
fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbosetup.. I beleive Kleemann or
someone similar had or was working oncentrifugal blower for the SL's, but
cost was around 25K or there about.In short there is No easy/inexpensive
means by which one can make these carsfaster. You already have the
'hottest' SL by owning a 92.Only other option that would net a few HP would
be a custom exhaust from themanifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K
if done correctly.If a 6L
is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand
alonefuel/spark management.Jonathan-- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG EastOffering
Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.Providing quality parts to
discriminating customers in all parts of theworld.Located in the Greater
Atlanta area.http://www.blueridgemb.com404 805 13571996 S600 Euro1991 560SEC
Euro ECE1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp1989 560SEC ECE
AMG Japan1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm1988 300TE1987 300E AMG1986
560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec
6sp-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was
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Issue 3***************************************



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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:05:29 -0500
From: "Satish Tummala" <satish at tummala.net>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?
To: "'SL Mailing List'" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <009d01c95e27$5076fac0$f164f040$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

He states that he's getting heat on both sides of the windshield. That
heat
needs to be dehumidified; hence the A/C compressor should be engaged and
the
system fully charged, otherwise, the defroster won't be very effective.



From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of chris wadlow
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 3:01 PM
To: SL Mailing List
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?



Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine
loosing
coolant ?
Chris.



_____


From: satish at tummala.net
To: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.com
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?



Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when
the defroster is on.



From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Gail & Doug Wolvington
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem?



My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it
is
cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better
on
drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.)
I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried
on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so
I
can see.



After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on
start
up.



Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep
windshield from fogging but is bit chilly.



any suggestions?



Gail & Doug Wolvington

1991 300sl

Bossier City, LA
grwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV>

From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>

Sent: <mailto:r129list-request at mbcoupes.com> Sunday, December 14, 2008
11:15 AM

To: <mailto:r129list-request at mbcoupes.com>
<mailto:r129list at mbcoupes.com>
r129list at mbcoupes.com

Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3



Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to
r129list at mbcoupes.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://www.pairli <http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list>
st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>

You can reach the person managing the list at
r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR>
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl)
2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the
office. (sautry at teknorapex.com)
&n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar)
4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co)
5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett)
6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman)


------------------------------------------------------ ----------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700
From: "gerhard stefandl" <gstefandl at cox.net>
Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
To: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928
<mailto:2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm
figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel
off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can
anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the
window mechanism.

Thanks for the help.
-------------- next part --------------
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-------------------------- ----

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800
From: sautry at teknorapex.com
Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of
the office.
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
<OF59856DA8.53F22593-ON8825751F.00002014-8825751F.00002014 at tekno
<mailto:OF59856DA8.53F22593-ON8825751F.00002014-8825751F.00002014 at teknorapex
.com> rapex.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until
12/15/2008.

I will respond to your message when I return.



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500
From: Rob Vonderhaar <rob at robvonder.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
<2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene
<mailto:2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchange.net
> t>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel
(even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're
perfect:
http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d <http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-door.html>
oor.html

Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the
door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with
either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I
first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side
window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse
until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either
direction.

After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window
motor
itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the
regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had
a
black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door
frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and
finally
into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design,
because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor
gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic
posts
into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at
the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move
when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear
jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear
teeth
over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly.

If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor
on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it
turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a
nice
cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars
(plastic
is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't
require
the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more
stable.
While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the
vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly
and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since
then.

Hope this helps!
Rob Vonderhaar
Leesburg, VA

PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing
the
door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on
the
older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door
torn
apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later
like I did... :)

From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A>
[mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window

I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm
figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel
off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can
anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the
window mechanism.

Thanks for the help.
-------------- next part --------------
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tachment.htm> 20081213/f76adcd7/attachment.htm>

---------------------------- --

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600
From: "mid-co" <mid-co at ix.netcom.com>
Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3
<mailto:09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>
C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"



Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec
window motors.


I have a 1995 , sl 500.

Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the
Transmission is in reverse and under load ?
( no clicking when rolling backwards).
Other than the clicking in reverse , the
transmission shifts like it's brand new.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Bruce in Nashville.
-------------- next part --------------
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---------------- --------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800
From: "Steven A Hiett" <shiett at charter.net>
Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?
To: <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
<20 <mailto:20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>
081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>
Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi,



Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL?
Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with
a
good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB
Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized
CD,
Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks
BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not
found is information about modifications and parts to boost the
performance
and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty
shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are
there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living
in
Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not
many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help.



; -Thanks, Steve Hiett

-------------- next part --------------
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URL: <http://www.pairlist.net/pipermail/r129list/attachments/
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tachment.htm> 20081213/2531bc9f/attachment.htm>

---------------------------- --

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500
From: "Jonathan Hodgman" <jhodgman at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Messa ge-ID:
< <mailto:1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>
1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>
Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello Steve,

Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a
6L
varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo
setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on
centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about.

In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these
cars
faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92.
Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from
the
manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly.

If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone
fuel/spark management.

Jonathan
--
Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East
Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.
Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the
world.
Located in the Greater Atlanta area.
http://www.blueridgemb.com <http://www.blueridgemb.com/>
404 805 1357

1996 S600 Euro
1991 560SEC Euro ECE
1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion
1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp
1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan
1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm
1988 300TE
1987 300E AMG
1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V
1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V
2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp
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Great search results, great prizes. BigSnapSearch.com Search
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