[R129 SL] RE: R129LIST Digest, Vol 18, Issue 5

Jan Kuylaars jan at rian-bv.nl
Mon Jun 19 05:22:32 EDT 2006


Dear MArc

Have you try to lock by hand with the wrench wich becomes by the car?
Then you know for sure the machanical allignement is done, and it is
developed so you can drive
With the top fastened when the Computer fails.

If this is not working:
In your manual there is a dicription of how to reset the softtop after
power faillure.
You also can try to di so.

And maybe the computer is thinking that the hardtop wil come on.
So you also can try to set the softtop into the trunk and put the
hardtop on and then remove.

Succes

Jan the Flying Dutchmen


-----Original Message-----
From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com
[mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of
r129list-request at mbcoupes.com
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 3:00 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 18, Issue 5


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Today's Topics:

   1. Soft top out of synch (Mark DeLuca)
   2. Re: SL500 Outside Temp Display Lamp (MBKindOfGuy)
   3. Re: Soft top out of synch (Paul Samarin)
   4. Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500 (Peter Cowie)
   5. RE: Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500
      (Deneal Schilmeister (Portege))
   6. cleaning soft top (Paul Samarin)
   7. Re: Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500 (Mark DeLuca)
   8. Re: cleaning soft top (Mark DeLuca)
   9. Re: Soft top out of synch (Mark DeLuca)
  10. Re: cleaning soft top (MBKindOfGuy)
  11. RE: Soft top out of synch (Deneal Schilmeister (Portege))


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:34:24 -0400
From: "Mark DeLuca" <markdeluca at gmail.com>
Subject: [R129 SL] Soft top out of synch
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Message-ID:
	<c6fdc8660606161534p782c2b20x45d947e4c75980d4 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Guys -

I partially opened the soft top on my 2000 SL500 in order to access the
mechanicals so that I could lube the rails. I opened it half way and
then stopped the operation and removed the ignition key to kill the
power. While I was working the lubricant into the rails I accidentially
pushed the soft top back down with my other hand. The soft top now goes
down just fine, but when I raise/close it the final step, locking down
the rear posts (bow section), fails. It clicks and makes all of the
normal sounds as though it is locking down, but the posts do not engage
in the holes so the rear bow section is not locked down. From the looks
of it the posts are slightly overshooting the holes. It is close enough
that I can coax them in, but when I do that it pulls the back of the top
down partially, but not down all of the way.

It is apparent that the placement of the top in reality it is out of
synch with where the computer thinks that it is. The top is open/down
now, any suggestions on how to get the controller mechanism synched so
that it will cose all of the way?

Thanks,

Mark D.
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:53:57 -0400
From: "MBKindOfGuy" <MBKindOfGuy at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] SL500 Outside Temp Display Lamp
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <003001c69197$c06e9680$a601a8c0 at ABCD1PORT>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

OK, pulled the instrument cluster in my '98 SL.  The bulb is a beige
base, 12v 1.5w.  Here's the exact bulb:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/productx.aspx?sid=bsxopl45jufwyyvsf1a55
f45&partnumber=%20910141000000

Fortunately the car uses the same bulb in all the instrument cluster
bulb locations.


Regards,
Howard M. Ginsberg
1998 SL500, 55KMiles
1993 300E, 118KMiles
1988 300E, Sold at 165KMiles
1986 300E, Sold at 180KMiles


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: MBKindofGuy 
  To: SL Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 9:13 AM
  Subject: Re: [R129 SL] SL500 Outside Temp Display Lamp



  Indeed it is a different arrangement than that in later years.  It's a
lamp that sits in a bayonet style base.  Anyone know the wattage or
color of the base of this lamp?


   
    -----Original Message----- 
    From: George - R129 
    Sent: Jun 16, 2006 3:14 AM 
    To: SL Mailing List 
    Subject: Re: [R129 SL] SL500 Outside Temp Display Lamp 

    I had the same problem with my 1990 500SL - if nothing has changed
in the intervening years, then the bulb is soldered to two contacts on
the little circuit board so there's no quick fix. I have one in my hand
- part no. DB AT 600 202 002 002 12161.

    To get at it, you will need the two hooked steel probes which are
inserted at about "ten to two" down the sides of the instrument panel,
turned and then carefully pull/wriggle the panel  out. Once out, the
outside temperature module pulls out of its 7 pin socket. You might get
lucky, as I did, to find an electronics engineer who will unsolder and
replace the bulb - this was after I bought a used module from New
Zealand ( www.4mercs.co.nz ) so I now have a spare !!!!

    Good luck 

    George 
    Cognac

    MBKindOfGuy wrote: 
      The lamp behind the instrument clusert outside temperature display
is out on my '98 SL500.  Anyone know an MB part number, or if that bulb
is the tiny one with the blue, tan or brown base?

      Any help appreciated!
  List
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 20:14:23 -0700
From: Paul Samarin <pauls at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Soft top out of synch
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <e110891dabaf54b6276b603d6c596c35 at sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

I recommend just working it through a couple of times.  If it just 
won't go electronically, try to complete it manually, and then try to 
cycle it through electronically. I'm no expert, I just had this work 
for me--unexplainedly.

Paul

On Jun 16, 2006, at 3:34 PM, Mark DeLuca wrote:

> Guys -
>
> I partially opened the soft top on my 2000 SL500 in order to access
> the mechanicals so that I could lube the rails. I opened it half way 
> and then stopped the operation and removed the ignition key to kill 
> the power. While I was working the lubricant into the rails I 
> accidentially pushed the soft top back down with my other hand. The 
> soft top now goes down just fine, but when I raise/close it the final 
> step, locking down the rear posts (bow section), fails. It clicks and 
> makes all of the normal sounds as though it is locking down, but the 
> posts do not engage in the holes so the rear bow section is not locked

> down. From the looks of it the posts are slightly overshooting the 
> holes. It is close enough that I can coax them in, but when I do that 
> it pulls the back of the top down partially, but not down all of the 
> way.
>
> It is apparent that the placement of the top in reality it is out of
> synch with where the computer thinks that it is. The top is open/down 
> now, any suggestions on how to get the controller mechanism synched so

> that it will cose all of the way?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark D.
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:11:57 +1000
From: Peter Cowie <cowie at bigpond.net.au>
Subject: [R129 SL] Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Message-ID: <4493810D.4060106 at bigpond.net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

The Climate Control  display on my 98 SL500 (46,000km) intermittently 
fades. Various parts of the dispaly disappear and will usually reappear 
when any button is pushed.

Can anyone give me some pointers as to where to start looking for the
cause?

Thanks,

Peter Cowie
Sydney
Australia


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 23:39:19 -0500
From: "Deneal Schilmeister \(Portege\)" <deneals at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [R129 SL] Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500
To: "'SL Mailing List'" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c691c8$03fac290$7001a8c0 at DSPORTEGE>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

When this happened to me, replacing the center vent assembly cured the
problem.

 
___________________________
Deneal Schilmeister
St. Louis - Cincinnati
1997 SL500
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com
[mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Cowie
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:12 PM
To: r129list at mbcoupes.com
Subject: [R129 SL] Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500

The Climate Control  display on my 98 SL500 (46,000km) intermittently 
fades. Various parts of the dispaly disappear and will usually reappear 
when any button is pushed.

Can anyone give me some pointers as to where to start looking for the
cause?

Thanks,

Peter Cowie
Sydney
Australia




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:11:31 -0700
From: Paul Samarin <pauls at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [R129 SL] cleaning soft top
To: SL Mailing List <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <7240fee070d54bbf70d187d871bd3e0f at sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

So far, my top is still perfectly clean and black, having never been 
used by the prior owner.  The windows are also very clean and clear, 
but a bit wrinkled in a couple of places.

What are the best methods and products for cleaning the canvass and the 
window "glass"?

Thanks,

Paul
90 500 SL



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:23:34 -0400
From: "Mark DeLuca" <markdeluca at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Fading/ faltering A/C display on 98 SL500
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID:
	<c6fdc8660606170523p6b32671em325912ed819d87c4 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Peter -

This happened to me in my 2000 SL500. The LCD readout would fade,
especially in the cold. When I pressed my finger against it it would
come back. Since the car was still under warranty the dealer just
replaced the LCD panel.

- Mark D.

On 6/17/06, Peter Cowie <cowie at bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
> The Climate Control  display on my 98 SL500 (46,000km) intermittently 
> fades. Various parts of the dispaly disappear and will usually 
> reappear when any button is pushed.
>
> Can anyone give me some pointers as to where to start looking for the 
> cause?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter Cowie
> Sydney
> Australia
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:37:40 -0400
From: "Mark DeLuca" <markdeluca at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] cleaning soft top
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID:
	<c6fdc8660606170537l661598c2y63793dd772eda0b7 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Paul -

My SL500 is never used in bad weather so the top hasn't needed much
attention. When it was new I treated it with a product called Rag Top
Protectant which really made my black top blacker in addition to beading
water.

The plastic windows need attention every year or so to keep them clear.
I use McGuire's scratch X which is the mildest abrasive that they sell
and it has been really fantastic. I buffed out my rear window with it
(be careful not to get it onto the fabric at the edges) and it did a
great job removing very small scratches. I followed that with an aresol
plastic window cleaner (forget the name, blue can) which seemed to put a
smooth coating on the plastic. Once the ScratchX gets the schmutz off,
then the plastic window cleaner does fine for the rest of the season.

BTW cleaning the inside of the plastic windows is a chore. Through trial
and error I now open the top just enough to release the back of the top
and then I pull up the rear bow so that I can clean the windows from the
outside of the car, half at a time (because they will be folded in
half). I found that the inside of the rear window was collecting the
most scratches, primarily from rubbing against the roll bar as it went
down. I now keep a bath towel in the trunk so that when I can, I put it
over the roll bar when dropping the top to minimize scratching.

- Mark D.


On 6/17/06, Paul Samarin <pauls at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> So far, my top is still perfectly clean and black, having never been 
> used by the prior owner.  The windows are also very clean and clear, 
> but a bit wrinkled in a couple of places.
>
> What are the best methods and products for cleaning the canvass and 
> the window "glass"?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
> 90 500 SL
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:40:01 -0400
From: "Mark DeLuca" <markdeluca at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Soft top out of synch
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID:
	<c6fdc8660606170540h41a5403dg455d63f19214b87b at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks Paul. I tried cycling it several times, as well as resetting the
windows (open all the way and hold down the button for several seconds).
All to no avail. I wonder if disconnecting the battery would do
anything?

On 6/16/06, Paul Samarin <pauls at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I recommend just working it through a couple of times.  If it just 
> won't go electronically, try to complete it manually, and then try to 
> cycle it through electronically. I'm no expert, I just had this work 
> for me--unexplainedly.
>
> Paul
>
> On Jun 16, 2006, at 3:34 PM, Mark DeLuca wrote:
>
> > Guys -
> >
> > I partially opened the soft top on my 2000 SL500 in order to access 
> > the mechanicals so that I could lube the rails. I opened it half way

> > and then stopped the operation and removed the ignition key to kill 
> > the power. While I was working the lubricant into the rails I 
> > accidentially pushed the soft top back down with my other hand. The 
> > soft top now goes down just fine, but when I raise/close it the 
> > final step, locking down the rear posts (bow section), fails. It 
> > clicks and makes all of the normal sounds as though it is locking 
> > down, but the posts do not engage in the holes so the rear bow 
> > section is not locked down. From the looks of it the posts are 
> > slightly overshooting the holes. It is close enough that I can coax 
> > them in, but when I do that it pulls the back of the top down 
> > partially, but not down all of the way.
> >
> > It is apparent that the placement of the top in reality it is out of

> > synch with where the computer thinks that it is. The top is 
> > open/down now, any suggestions on how to get the controller 
> > mechanism synched so that it will cose all of the way?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mark D.
> >
> > The MB Coupes Website!
> > R129 SL Mailing List
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> R129 SL Mailing List
>
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:56:26 -0400
From: "MBKindOfGuy" <MBKindOfGuy at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] cleaning soft top
To: "SL Mailing List" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <006601c6920d$717aef30$a601a8c0 at ABCD1PORT>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Meguiars makes a clear plastic polish for the plastic convertible
windows:

http://www.meguiars.com/?clear-plastic-care/PlastX-Clear-Plastic-Cleaner
-Polish

I plan to use some this weekend and will report back on its
effectiveness.

I need to find a place to get the RagTopp cleaner and proctectant.

Regards,
Howard M. Ginsberg
1998 SL500, 55KMiles
1993 300E, 118KMiles
1988 300E, Sold at 165KMiles
1986 300E, Sold at 180KMiles


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mark DeLuca 
  To: SL Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 8:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [R129 SL] cleaning soft top


  Paul -

  My SL500 is never used in bad weather so the top hasn't needed much
attention. When it was new I treated it with a product called Rag Top
Protectant which really made my black top blacker in addition to beading
water. 

  The plastic windows need attention every year or so to keep them
clear. I use McGuire's scratch X which is the mildest abrasive that they
sell and it has been really fantastic. I buffed out my rear window with
it (be careful not to get it onto the fabric at the edges) and it did a
great job removing very small scratches. I followed that with an aresol
plastic window cleaner (forget the name, blue can) which seemed to put a
smooth coating on the plastic. Once the ScratchX gets the schmutz off,
then the plastic window cleaner does fine for the rest of the season. 

  BTW cleaning the inside of the plastic windows is a chore. Through
trial and error I now open the top just enough to release the back of
the top and then I pull up the rear bow so that I can clean the windows
from the outside of the car, half at a time (because they will be folded
in half). I found that the inside of the rear window was collecting the
most scratches, primarily from rubbing against the roll bar as it went
down. I now keep a bath towel in the trunk so that when I can, I put it
over the roll bar when dropping the top to minimize scratching. 

  - Mark D.



  On 6/17/06, Paul Samarin <pauls at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
    So far, my top is still perfectly clean and black, having never been
    used by the prior owner.  The windows are also very clean and clear,
    but a bit wrinkled in a couple of places.

    What are the best methods and products for cleaning the canvass and
the 
    window "glass"?

    Thanks,

    Paul
    90 500 SL
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 07:59:29 -0500
From: "Deneal Schilmeister \(Portege\)" <deneals at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [R129 SL] Soft top out of synch
To: "'SL Mailing List'" <r129list at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c6920d$e0235580$7101a8c0 at DSPORTEGE>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I've had some success with disconnecting the battery.

Its like rebooting a computer in these cars.

 

 

___________________________

Deneal Schilmeister

St. Louis - Cincinnati

1997 SL500

http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com
[mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Mark DeLuca
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 7:40 AM
To: SL Mailing List
Subject: Re: [R129 SL] Soft top out of synch

 

Thanks Paul. I tried cycling it several times, as well as resetting the
windows (open all the way and hold down the button for several seconds).
All to no avail. I wonder if disconnecting the battery would do
anything?

 

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