[LargeFormat] Headline: Little Camera Guy Intimidated by Ne

[Michael Briggs]

On 29-May-02 Alan Davenport wrote:
> I've been reading everything I can find, got AA's "The Camera" next to my
> bed, got Vade Mecum installed on my Palm Pilot, still got to figure out how
> to use that program.... I understand about bellows factors and filter
> factors,
> but never had to apply them when my camera was metering through all the
> goodies and making most of those decisions.  I soon expect to be looking
> for uses for trashed 4x5 film (punch holes in it, glue it to a stick, use as
> a fly swatter?)

I suggest simplifying and not bothering with software to take your LF photos,
at least at first.   Most likely very few of your photos will need it.

Bellows extension: the first thing to remember is that you don't need to apply
exposure compensation for bellows extension unless you are focused on a subject
within ten focal lengths.  For your 150 mm lens, that means only subjects with
in 1.5 meters.  If you might take closeups, I would just prepare a graph or
table in advance on a piece of paper.

For depth-of-field, I use one of two techniques: judge the stopped-down image
on the ground glass with a loupe and add about an extra stop to what seems
right on the ground glass, or use the method described on "A large format
photography homepage" based upon measuring the change in focus between near and
far.

For tilts and swings, the first thing to realize is that outside of closeups,
the amount of tilt required is usually quite small, from a fraction of a degree
to two degrees.  The most common mistake is to get carried away.  Again, one
technique is to judge on the ground glass, trying several settings (a marked
scale helps) to see which minimized the change in focus position for near vs
far.  Using the procedure described by Howard Bond (see "A large format
photography homepage") systematizes this.   In most cases, a tilt or swing only
buys one about one or maybe two f-stops, so don't worry too much about it at
first.  (There are exceptions were tilts/swings are extremely useful.)

Also realize that typical taking apertures are f16 and f22, and sometimes f32.

The most useful movement is the easiest to use: front rise.   In many cases you
level the camera and shove the lens up until you have the composition that you
want.   The only thing to watch for is that you don't exceed the coverage of
the lens.    You can look up or calculate the maximum rise (depending on
landscape/portrait orientation of the film).

I have simplified some--there are cases where a more complicated approach is
better, but it is easier to start with the simple approaches that cover the
majority of cases.

--Michael