[LargeFormat] Greetings and questions.

[Les Newcomer]

I'll parse your letter and add comments where I see fit.

John wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 

> 
> Color landscape
> B & W lanscape and alternative process
> Fine Art Portraiture
> Macro (nature closeups)


Okay, a few pointers, a landscape camera can be almost
anything--monorail, field, old, new,  Alt processes TEND to use larger
cameras (5x7 and up) since they contact print. With a 4x5 you have to
get an enlarged neg and there are several ways to do it including
digital, but I assume since that's the field you work in you want to
stay with analog.

Fine art portraiture. While a field camera can take great portraits, if
you want to use neat old portrait lenses, you'll need a different
camera. Portrait or studio cameras have a ridgid front with a large
lensboard to support the very large and heavy portrait lenses.
> 
> I like precision, but I DO NOT like to fiddle with things - ie I wont like
> an un-rigid camera.  Or a lock that wont stay, or zero detents that wont
> allow small adjustments, etc.
> 
> I think I would prefer a lighter monorail over a field camera, but weight isn't
> all that important to me - I'm in decent shape.  I just want something reliable,
> sturdy, precise and a joy to use in the areas mentioned above.
> 
> With my 35mm stuff, I prefer my 17-35mm (usually on the 17mm side) to
> the 400mm.  I can't get enough of those wide angle landscapes!  So wide
> angle capabilities are a must plus, I'd like to try those panoramic roll film adapters.
> 
> Some of the cameras that I have looked at so far and have found attractive:
> 
> Arca Swiss, Sinar, Toyo GX/VX125 and Kardan (That Master looks nice!!! but the price, ouch)
>         - the system cameras that will allow you to expand to 8 x 10.
> 
> Canham DLC
> Wista 4x5 SP Technical - rear focus and 5x7 back option!
> Wisner Expedition, Technical
> 
> There are so many options.  I basically clueless as to the operation (Ipm familiar with the principle tho)
>  of these cameras, my local photo stores don't have anything for test drives and there aren't many
> LF shooters in town.
> 
> I'm purposefully not giving a dollar range as I don't want to limit myself by that too much - if I don't
> have the cash I can wait if the camera is worth it.  But on the other hand I can't see me buying
> a P2 right off the bat either.

trust me on this, a P2 is not the camera you want to take into the
field. I've done it.

I'm going to bring my bias in here which may not be yours. I tend to
like older systems because they fit my budget. I'd rather spend my money
on the meat and not the sizzle. System cameras that will allow you to
module up to 8x10 are more expensive than a good 4x5 and an 8x10
Deardorff or Masterview combined.

You like to shoot wide, so do I.  I would recommend the middle of the
road Calumet  I think they call it an MX or PX. It's not the Cadet but
it's their bottom of the line real 4x5. Your gonna think that its too
cheap to do the job but it isn't.  With a bag bellows and the short rail
it will handle the wide stuff. I know it will handle a 65 super Angulon
it may handle the 58 or the 47 xl. It locks when it should and stays and
it's smooth to move. It's also rigid enough to handle a 19" artar in a
moderate breeze and not shake or collapse under the weight. 

I went from a P2 to this and really don't miss the geared rise and fall
and shift and I really don't miss the wieght. If I were running a
studio, then the P2 makes sense but not when you need an all-in-one camera.

The roll backs are really tempting, but are not cost effective unless
4x5 film is very difficult and expensive to find as it is in some parts
of Europe. The horsman 6x12 is $600-800 and does the same thing as
cropping a 4x5 neg. While I haven't really tried, it would take a
lifetime for me to justify the upfront costs. Also if I'm wishy washy as
to what film I want I can shoot a chrome, B&W and Neg in one and a half
holders. You can't do that with a roll back.

The Calumet camera is about $250-300 used or $1500 cheaper than the new
systems you mentioned. I saved you another $800 for the roll holder. Now
spend that money in glass.

If you wnat the best, newest, sharpest then get the 58XL Angulon  and
the 100XL, I hear   Get the ND grad filters for these lenses too..
Between these two lenses alone, you've spend more than the $2300 I saved
you. From there you want something close to normal, I haven't looked in
new catalogs lately for what's cutting edge but a Gold Ring Dagor in the
150mm-180mm range would be dreamy. There's a big jump between the 100
and the 180 so add Nikon 120SW this just barely covers 8x10 so you have
your first 8x10 lens and more movement on 4x5 than you can dream about.

If you want to run budget, look for a 58 Grandagon from a medium format
Graflex XL and have it remounted to a board.There won't be any movements
but it will cover 4x5. Then  get a 65 Super Anglon. A 90mm Super Angluon
is very nice. You'll need a 120mm. Fuji and Caltar make nice stuff. The
longest I ever got was a 180mm Symmar S. The newer HMs are very good,
but I still think the S has a better value right now. 

the nice part about starting with the Calumet is that there is very
little up front costs You get your feet wet, have fun, start to learn
how things work. Keep it for a few years then sell it buy the current
BMW of cameras and you've still got all that nice glass.

i said in the begining that I'm biased to older systems. One problem
with older systems is their lack of wide angle capability. A 5x7 2D from
Eastman Kodak will set you back a mere $200 but the bellows are not
changable and if you can focus a 6" lens on it you can't shift because
of the pleats.  That's why I suggested a Calumet MX. Omega made an
interchangeable bellows camera too and you can find them on ebay from
time to time. Their lensboards fit Toyo without modifcation, so you
could start with the cheaper Omega move up to a Toyo 4x5,5x7 or 8x10 and
keep the same lensboards.  But a Toyo 8x10 will still cost $500+ more
than an 8x10 Deardorf.



Les
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